Saturday, June 25, 2011

across the Taiwan straight

http://www.life.com/image/71541178

I don't normally discuss politics much with friends.  I believe that despite our differences in political views, that we can all still get along fine.  Since living in China, many many people have asked me what I think about the situation between Taiwan and China, and whether I think an 'unification' of the two would be in the horizon.  Most of them have never been to Taiwan due to visa requirements, and a lot of Taiwanese are also not interested in learning more about China.

Before I visited the 'motherland,' I was not particularly for or against the possibility of unification of the two places.  After all, they are like sisters that fought and haven't talked to each other for decades.  The 'unification' of Hong Kong and China didn't seem to harm HK much, I thought, so why not. 

Then I lived here and learned much more about this place and their culture.  I watched their TV hows and news, and I listened to what the people have to say about politics.  It was an eye-widening experience. 


And what do I think today?  No f*@king way would I ever want to be controlled by the government here. Or have anything to do with them.  My belief is confirmed by others from Taiwan.

Now when my Chinese friends ask me whether I think there is a chance for 'unification' of the two places, I think they are implying, "come back so that you can save us!"

The other day I met up with some people that taught at the university, and listened to the intellectuals' views about this country's growth.  Even though the country appears to be modeled on capitalism and consumerism in a similar Western fashion, the rest is actually turning inward. What changed is their behavior and outlook on money, but that doesn't mean that old cultural habits that has been ingrained in their genes will be westernized.  I am talking about they way they structure their organizations, and the way they do business.  One of the intellectuals I was with pointed out the university's magazine to me.  It's their centennial celebration, a very big deal for any university, and especially such an influential one.  On the cover, is a pyramid of photos with the most influential person at the top and so on.  One would think that the founding deans or other influential intellectuals would be at the top of the pyramid.  Unfortunately, the most influential professors were in a row at the bottom of the pyramid, while the top was dominated by political figures. 

It was very disturbing, he said. 
He fears that the country is turning backward, instead of heading forward.
I have to agree with him on that.

A country originally based on idealistic communism has turned into a system of class dominated by the political elite.  All final decisions that matter are made by the political party, including most of the largest and influential government-funded start-ups.  All local news are filtered and censored, including their Twitter-like site called Weibo.  I am not claiming that the Taiwan or US governments are THAT much better, but a least we can vote for who we want to lead the country.  Sure, we have representatives that are not really representing the right Americans, but at least we had some.  This is what it looks like when China allows its citizens to run for elections for anything.

Like an upside-down poporcelain china, the country is insulated from outside influences.  Ms. Berrol used to tell us in our middle school geography class.  She was right.  China runs on its own course.  If you want to work with China, you follow their rules. 

There are plenty of people that come and try to work with (in) China and fail.  The few that succeed always tell you how difficult it was when they started, and how many times they have been cheated, etc.  So far, the one person that really stood out from my observations, is William from Taiwan.  William owns a very successful company in the city of Xiamen called TechAudio.  They are the supplier for CSM, a sister company of ours that sells sound masking systems.  Last week I flew down to Xiamen and visited his company, and toured the city. 

William has been in Xiamen for about 15 years, and has made his business grow into a very successful one.  They are capable of making low-end audio parts, as well as some higher-end speakers and subs.  Most of his employees have worked there for many years, which is usually a good sign about how well the company is managed.  He is a very jolly man of 58-years old - married to a Taiwanese woman about 20 years his junior who also works at the company.  He is young at heart and knows how to live.  William called in his technical sales guy and told him to give me an introduction about the CSM product, as if I was considering purchasing the product.  What he didn't tell this poor fella is that I am basically from CSM!  The guy was really embarrassed and promised to give a better sales pitch next time.

After the business talks and tours, William had his favorite staff Lilly take me around Xiamen.  Lilly is a 27-year old rising star, and William asked me to talk to her and give her some guidance on life.  He wants her to become a more confident woman, who can take charge.  William and his wife have no kids, and I can tell that he treats his staff like his own.  He hosts monthly 'book clubs' for his staff of about 20 (not including the factory workers that actually assemble the products), where they read various books ranging from personal development to business.

Xiamen is a historic port city southeast of China, the place closest to Taiwan's Kinmen island.  It has a little bit of resemblance to other port cities like Qingdao and Lugang.  The one good thing is that unlike Qingdao which is a peninsula, Xiamen is actually an island.  This prevents the city from over-expanding to the point of being unlivable.  The weather in Xiamen is similar to Taiwan, very tropical, relatively breezy and and nice blue skies.  A lot of Chinese immigrants that went to the rest of southeast Asia (including Taiwan) came from the Fujian province and specifically Xiamen, making it a very historic place.  It did, somewhat feel like home, I guess.  A lot of Filipino-Chinese and Singaporean-Chinese are from here generations ago, and plenty of them come back and visit.  They speak the same dialect as Taiwan called Hokkien, making it a somewhat familiar place.  The old part of Xiamen looks similar to the streets of Lugang in Taiwan, which has a lot of European architecture influences.  After all, it was the main port for exporting tea in the 19th century, and plenty of culture mixing happend right here.

Gulangyu coast
One of the must-sees of Xiamen is a small island called Gulangyu, which is where the westerners resided in Xiamen when they were here in the early 1900s.  It is also called the musical island, kind of like the Chinese Juliard.  It has it's own music school, a concert hall, and a piano museum with about 80 old European and US made old pianos, clavichords, and harpsichords. It was such a treat for me!  Not so much for Lilly - she was probably wondering why I would spend so many hours in a museum.

Streets of Gulangyu, all pedestrian-only


View from the top of the piano museum
A rock!  The highest point on the island

A funny entrance for the piano museum
  
No photos were allowed, so I took one real quickly at the entrance without flash

  
A nice treat of shaved ice with mangoes and sauce after a hot day!

Saturday, June 18, 2011

what keeps me going

It's a sunny Saturday here in Beijing, and I have opted out of climbing at Baihe with my Chinese buddies.  I really wanted to go, but my body told me to take a break.  It has been a very exciting week at work and I haven't slept much at all.  The company that I am squatting at is having major restructuring, and every day is a new day here at Zisen. The closest thing I can compare it to is like watching the TV series 24.  What took an hour felt more like a whole day, all packed into one big episode.  I look forward to work everyday.

I slept in this morning and got up at around noon.  It felt great.  I didn't have any obligations today, no one to meet up with.  All I have to think about is what I want to eat.

When we were climbing at Baihe last week, I found out that both Gaga and Mantou are injured from climbing.  Both of them have become strong climbers over the course of a season outside, since they started as mountaineers and ice climbers before technical rock climbing.  They have climbed consistently every weekend possible.  They also climb at their limit, which is something I need to learn from them.  But one time, Gaga landed on the mat at the gym in the wrong angle and hurt her left knee.  Mantou also bouldered too hard two weeks ago at the gym and pulled one of his shoulder or arm muscles.  My instinct would be to rest and get well.  Or if I can't stop climbing, climb something REALLY REALLY easy.  Instead, they went out this weekend again.    Probably working on some hard climbs again.

They also feel like they have plateaued in their climbing level.  Coinciding with injuries, their motivation is dwindling, because they don't feeling like they are getting noticeably better.  Why is so and so sending those overhanging, slopey, 5.13 climbs and I am not???  Why don't I have a six-pack like those shirtless guys at the gym?  Why can she go up the cave so easily and I can't?  They asked me last week how I stay motivated to climb after so many years (starting in 2003!). 

If comparing yourself to others is your main motivation for climbing, then I don't think that the motivation will last long.  Unless you are like Chris Sharma or Adam Ondra, there will always be someone better than you.  It's the same in other aspects of life - your career, your relationships, your finance, etc.

Just the other day, one of my favorite bloggers posted a similar topic on his page.  It couldn't have been better timing.  Chris had just hosted his first ever conference/summit for all of his blog fans (team).  It wasn't profitable, and some marketing people had contacted him about how to make the event more profitable next time.  Here is an except from his post, which applies to pretty much anything in life:

The more important question is: what are we trying to do here? What’s the goal?
Here’s what I propose as a better standard: when you go to bed at night, are you extremely excited about what you’ve done that day and what’s coming up the next day? Do people tell you about all the awesome things they are doing, in part because of something you’ve created?

Are you making art, whether you think of yourself as an artist or not?

Whatever your dream is, are you living it?

If freedom is one of your highest values, are you experiencing enough freedom in your life?
These are some standards I prefer to use. These things are what matters. It’s not just about what works. Because sometimes, it can work… but that doesn’t mean it works.

What keeps me motivated in climbing

Sure, I love sending up hard problems and patting myself on the back.  Who doesn't like getting an ego boost once in a while?  But this is what keeps me going year after year: 

being up high somewhere 
with the ones you trust
feeling the texture of the rock
to look down and see the back of a flying bird
smell the dirt from the rope as it rubs through the belay device 
hearing the wind
licking your dry lips and wishing for more water
sharing a great meal with good friends
recapping on our experiences that day

really loving life
and everything that comes with it

I hope that you readers will find this post helpful as a boost for the day.  And that you will find passion in anything that you do, regardless of the obstacles that come across you.

Go be an artist.  
Become the baker that you always wanted to be.
Go run a food truck.
Own a climbing gym.
Go out there and make the change to get you excited about life.

Just remember, YOU are what keeps me excited about writing.

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

the end of the shuffleboard era

The other day I got an email from Michael about their move to JP from Somerville.  I am very sad that they are moving to the other side of the river.  I guess I can't really have much input since I'm technically on the other side of the globe. 

This is what Michael has to say, which I found entertaining -


T minus six days until the big move. If you guys haven't practiced your breathing exercises I would get started. 

That said, the bad new first. We will no longer be moving the shuffleboard table to JP. The owner of one of Boston's finest tittie parlors purchased it yesterday as a wedding gift for his friend. Yes he really did pay all $500 of the purchase price in dollar bills. I know you were all looking forward to moving this large piece of butcher block furniture, but not to fear today is trash day in Somerville, and I've collected the following items to replace the Suffleboard table. (1) a chair with three legs, (2) an old speaker from a hifi set, (3) a weight room set, (4) mystery prize (I'm actually not sure what this thing is, but if someone identifies it correctly, they can keep it.)
That said, we'll be starting at 9am Saturday (not my idea) at Sarah's place, [ ] Beacon Street, Somerville. For those taking the T, we'll have enough car seats to transport you to JP. Alternatively, if two people would like, they can ride our shinny new tandem bike to JP (note: the tandem is neither shinny, nor new, but it is a schwinn.) Lastly, for those who want to sleep in, the address of our place in JP is, [ ] Roundhill Street, the closest T stop is Jackson Square or Heath Street.

I will definitely miss that shuffleboard.  I still can't believe Sarah bought that thing on eBay by accident.
A new tandem bike?!?  I am so excited to ride on that thing when I get back to Boston!  What else do you need aside from a tandem bike?


It's wicked hot over here in Beijing.

My apartment is 27C (81F) and I am not even in direct sunlight.   Last weekend it was up in the 90s, unbearable to climb in the sun.  I tried turning on the ceiling mounted fan coil unit last night, but there was a strange burnt circuit odor.  I didn't really want to suffocate myself, so I opened the window again to get some fresh air. 

I have been wearing tank tops going shopping at the market for the last two days.  Most people wear blouses that cover their shoulders (even most climbing ladies do this), and I really stick out like a sore thumb.  Most of them will wear short shorts before wearing a tank top.  Some people wear summer dresses.  So what if my legs are all banged up from climbing?  I have no choice but to wear skirts or shorts.  I can't even fathom putting a pair of pants on right now.  Nylons?  Forget it.  I get stares from the locals, but I don't really care at this point. 

My tan from the last Indian Creek trip has also caused a lot of scolding from the Chinese. I accidentally  burnt myself on the first day climbing back in April.  Now I have a permanent racerback pattern on my back.  My arms are bronze, but my rest of my body is pasty yellow.  I got a halter top to go climbing with, in a hopeful attempt to even out the tan. 

You got dark, is one of the first comments I got from almost everyone here.
It's a real no no here in Asia.  To be sooooo dark.
These included my coworkers (male and female), my climbing buddies (still fair), and even my masseuse.

My masseuse Yang gave me a good rub down on Monday after my hard weekend climbing.  Labor is cheap compared to the US, and I have to take advantage of something while I am here.  I am not sure what methods they use to un-knot my tight back.  Whatever it is, it works.  It's almost painful, but I always get a really good night sleep after the session.  It's some kind of east meets west method.  All I can tell you is she uses some type of ruler or board to scrape my back and put pressure on my knots, then they suction cup the hell out of it.  After all that, they give you the regular massage by hand.  The first time I tried it, my back looked like it got a huge hickey from a giant catfish that took days to recover.  These days, the redness goes away the following day.

I used to not be able to have a conversation during the massage session because it was so painful.  These days, it's a bit more manageable.  Yang told me to treat my body better and stop abusing it with my reckless climbing obsession.  But then again, she loves to hear about my adventures from the weekends away, and I can tell that she is living vicariously through me.  She is working inside the shopping mall spa all day, and doesn't get to see the sun much.  They only get 5 days off per month, but they don't always know when those rest days are.  It's a hard life as a farmer's daughter and moving to the city to work. 

The market is bustling with shoppers trying to get the freshest produce.  Apricots, melons, and cherries are in season, and they are delicious.  Watermelon is also in season, but I have avoided them thanks to the exploding watermelons I heard about earlier in the season.  I made myself some leeks and bamboo shoots with soft tofu last night.  Trying to eat more healthy this time around in Beijing.